gybe set

Mumm 30 Set-Gybe


Because so many of us hoist and douse our spinnakers from the forehatch, it has become a real challenge to execute a proper gybe set without sending the bowperson forward to get the gear and the pole around to the opposite sides. If a gybe is necessary at the weather mark, there are two ways to deal with the situation.

First, because we often race with offset marks at the top, if port tack is heavily favoured downwind, it probably means that the offset leg is pretty broad. Hoist as soon as possible so that the crew will be able to clean up and execute an immediate gybe at the spacer mark.

If there is no spacer mark, or the offset leg is too tight to hoist, execute what's called a "Set-Gybe." This manoeuvre is a matter of hoisting and rolling into a gybe immediately. The helmsperson and the trimmer must really be on the ball to nail it.

Keys to a good Set-Gybe:
Exactly same set up as a normal bear away, the crew stays hiking, pole on mast, normal height, etc.
Approaching the weather mark, the call must go forward so that the foredeck knows not to worry about getting the Jib down. This will enable he/she to be able to go straight for the lazy guy (make sure there is enough slack) and gybing the pole.
Helm steers the boat around the mark and calls hoist, concentrating on the luff of the spinnaker and bearing off as much as possible and still allowing the spinnaker to fill.
The guy person is ready to square the pole significantly and has asked for the foreguy to be pre-set.
Rounding, the jib sheet is eased about a foot and cleated. It will be okay for the jib to back on new gybe.
The spinnaker trimmer is concentrating on getting the chute full, but then immediately easing, as they know that helmsperson will roll into the gybe exactly when they see spinnaker fill.
When executed correctly this almost becomes one continuous turn, the helm steering based on the spinnaker fill and the crew knowing that they are immediately rolling into a gybe.

With practice, and depending upon conditions, you should be able to get onto port gybe about one boat-length away from the mark.

There is another method that can be used to execute the gybe set if you are set for a conventional hoist.

When sailing across the spreader leg the foredeck removes the pole from the weather spinnaker guy (if still attached)
He then puts the pole onto the leeward guy, make sure that the jib trimmer has left enough slack in the guy for this to happen. The pitman must then simultaneously raise the pole as the foredeck pushes the pole to leeward and attaches it to the mast. Failure to top the pole as it is pushed to leeward will result in the pole going into the water and probably snapping (remember to make an allowance for the pole at the mark or something similar may happen).
The foredeck then feeds the clew of the spinnaker around the headstay by about 500mm ready for the set. Whilst the foredeck crew is working the trimmer should be taking the slack on the starboard spinnaker sheet ready for the hoist.
The trimmer then eases the jib by a foot and cleats it off, it will then be backed when on the new gybe.
Hoist the spinnaker as you round the mark onto the new gybe. Communication between the trimmer and helmsman is paramount in ensuring the correct rate of turn is employed to prevent the spinnaker being blown into the foretriangle.
The foredeck hand then drops the jib as normal.

oops didn't hoist spin all the way - round down

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whSHw4k2yLo&feature=related

End for End = step by step

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFUnV2BEwH4&feature=related

Rules - Made Simple

The rules of sailing are much clearer and generally very simple.
- Opposite tacks port/starboard
- Same tacks, windward/leeward
- Mark roundings within 2 boat lengths inside overlapped boat has rights.
- When acquiring rights, make sure give way boat has room to stay clear.
- Don't hit anyone even if you have rights.
- Can't force someone to hit someone/something/ground even if you have rights.

It starts getting complicated when you start talking about the transitions (tacking inside 2 boat lenghths, etc.) and definitions (what exactly is port/starboard, and as the above example shows, windward/leeward aren't always totally clear.)

Both Starboard, reciprocal course & who is windward when?

Q: I'm going downwind, by the lee on starboard gybe. Wind is about 5 knots. There is another boat which has already rounded the leeward mark, coming upwind towards me on starboard tack. We hold our courses, with him on a bearing to pass to my port side, and me to pass on his port side. We're on more or less reciprocal bearings. As we pass, my boom hits his mast. There is no damage. We both protest. Who is wrong?

A: This has always been a bit of a conundrum. If you take the situation a few boat lengths back, the running boat was probably on the windward side of the boat close-hauled, so the running boat is the keep-clear boat. When she crosses the line projecting ahead of the close-hauled boat she ceases being the keep-clear boat and so might possibly be said to ?acquire right-of-way?, requiring her to initially gives room to the other boat (rule 15).

But if you just take the situation you describe, and if both boats are sailing steady courses, then both boats are on starboard tack and both are on the other boat?s leeward side, so neither is windward boat, and rule 11 doesn?t apply. The only rule that can be applied is rule 14 requiring each to avoid contact with the other and if there is damage, both boats could be penalized.

Don't shove sails down the hatch, walk on etc

After all the years of doing bow, I never found shoving any upwind headsail down the foredeck hatch on anything but a custom race boat, a good idea. Unless it is a non-production, custom race boat, the foredeck hatch is never large enough for the #1 or #2 jib/gen and takes so much longer to do than a quick, loose folding luff when you drop the sail, bend it over upon itself once and set with a sail tie, or two on bigger boats. Once you are dealing with the #3 and up, the waves are breaking over the bow so much that opening that hatch is a good way to take on a couple hundred gallons of sea water in a hurry.

Oh yeah, it's bad for the sails too. A good bow and pit would know how to drop the sail and luff fold it on the way down, even on an outside peel, layer up when pulling underneath the newly hoisted sail. Always roll your old bag for the sail in reverse so that you can roll it towards the bow from the mast.

Tuning - Mast Base Position

Move the mast base forward so mast is 24.25 inches from bulkhead. Other than that, do what Ulman guide says.

Spray Baltoplate / Wet Sand / Polish - GO FAST!

How to on the Olson 30
Burnish a Vinylester Bottom, like Baltoplate or VC-17
Spray on 2 coats of Baltoplate and let dry.
Wet sand with 400 grit sandpaper (knock off the rough spots only).
Bronze wool polish the surface (I forget the wool grade recommended). [ed. Do not use steel wool, as any little flakes will end up rusting.]
Finish by burnishing with a piece of hardwood that has had the end ‘fired’ - ie you take a piece of maple flooring, cut an angled tip on it. Then stick that tip into live coals (or hit it with a blowtorch) until it gets a layer of charcoal on it. Rub away the charcoal by rubbing against a hard and smooth surface (like a piece of slate). Then use that on the BaltoPlate.
Notes:
The wool and the burnishing should only be done in Fore/Aft motion.
The idea that you only need to polish the first 6 feet of hull and forward 1/3 of the keel because of Reynolds numbers - is an old wives tale. It is based on drag models scaled up from hull testing in drag tanks. Turns out that Reynolds numbers don’t scale that way - especially in ‘surface boundary’ environments.
We found on the J-24, that going to 1600 grit (on a vinylester epoxy bottom) for the whole keel and rudder, and the forward 2/3 of the boat, made a noticeable difference.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Longboards%20and%20Blocks&categoryId=3&refine=1&page=GRID

Antifoulings should only be wet sanded. Never dry sand or burn-off old antifoulings.